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We tested gloves from Petzl, Black Diamond, Ocun, and more to help you decide which pairs are going to keep your hands the happiest while out on the rock
Tired of busted knuckles and aluminum dust covering your hands after a long day of climbing? For over a decade now, our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing gloves. For our current review, we researched 35 models and purchased eight of the top gloves to test side-by-side. We put these gloves through the gauntlet of climbing, and have traveled miles of vertical rock during our extensive testing period. From marathon rappel descents to precarious nail-ups on El Cap, these gloves have done it all. We examined and rated each one based on how it felt on ropes, how much friction it delivered, the dexterity in handling protection pieces, and overall durability. We offer you personal recommendations for all-day belaying, big wall rappelling, and crack climbing, and are sure that our comprehensive review includes a climbing glove to fit your needs and budget.
Did you know that GearLab started out as an offshoot of the acclaimed climber's resource, SuperTopo? It only makes sense that we'd have in-depth reviews for the best climbing gear on the market. From big wall gear like ascenders and haul bags to everyday necessities like the best rock climbing ropes and top-rated carabiners, we have you covered.
Editor's Note: We updated this review on August 20, 2024, to update photos and testing perspectives for award winners.
Full finger leather design offers excellent rope protection, sufficient dexterity, long lasting performance, and re-inforced sections to extend the life of the glove
Impressively durable leather construction, solid clip-in loops and wrist closure, excellent knuckle protection for aid climbing
Full hand protection, relatively breathable, stretchy synthetic backing offered all day comfort
Great durability and dexterity, synthetic backing provides good ventilation
Thin leather design promotes comfort, half finger design prioritizes dexterity for big walls, less break-in time
Cons
Expensive, not enough dexterity for aid climbing, minor flaws in velcro attachment
Expensive, longer break in period, lacks breathability
Limited dexterity, expensive
Expensive, lacks protection for back of hands
Expensive, lacks durability of other leather designs, sizing runs small
Bottom Line
A favorite of our testing team thanks to it's durable full finger leather design that effectively offered rope protection and coverage for multiple seasons of use
This incredibly durable 3/4 length leather climbing glove is perfect for those seeking maximum coverage and dexterity while aid climbing
These climbing gloves feature a leather and synthetic combination design that supplied all-day comfort thanks to a bit of stretch and additional breathability without sacrificing rope protection
This glove combines the durability of leather with the breathable performance of synthetics while offering great dexterity for belaying and rappelling
These leather gloves offer solid performance for multi-day big wall missions
The Metolius Belay gloves are the sturdiest full-finger option that we tested. Like their half-finger counterparts, they have thick leather, beefy stitching, and a comfortable wrist closure. We also love that there are sections of doubled material strategically placed in high-traffic areas to increase overall durability without creating too much bulk in the design. This durable workhorse will last you multiple seasons and you can easily extend the life of the glove by applying euro tape to the small holes that inevitably come with lots of rappelling.
While the Belay is a great option for those looking to invest in a durable glove that's perfect for cragging, the design does not come without a few flaws. The thick leather design requires a longer break-in period, and it doesn't breathe as well as its thinner, synthetic counterparts. We've also experienced some issues with the wrist attachment losing some stitching, though it's worth mentioning that the attachment never fully ripped off and could be easily repaired with a speedy stitch. These caveats aside, the Metolius Belay is a great option for those seeking maximum rope protection along with incredible durability. If you're not too thrilled about the price, the Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger is a budget-friendly option that integrates a mesh material that aids in breathability.
The before and after photos represent the life of the Metolius Belay over multiple seasons. The velcro closure never fully failed and the euro tape bought our testers some extra time before purchasing a replacement pair.
If you're in the market for an affordable pair of climbing gloves that also offer a ton of breathability, check out the Black Diamond Crag glove. This glove is the lightest and most breathable full-finger climbing glove we tested. They are fully synthetic and dry faster than their leather counterparts, which is great for hot, summer days of extended use. The Crag gloves fit true to size, and a medium fit our lead tester perfectly.
Though our testers liked this glove for belaying, they found the Crag Glove too thin for anything longer than single pitch rappels as they hardly have enough material to shield your hand from the friction created from the rope. Unfortunately, their lightweight design comes at the cost of durability and performance. The BD Crags are more affordable than the Petzl Cordex and BD Transition, but they're also far less durable than either pair. That being said, we expect the lifetime cost to even out since you will likely wear through the Crag in half the time it would take to burn through the Cordex or Transition.
The Black Diamond Crag is a great lightweight option, but they don't offer as much protection as full-finger leather gloves.
Length: Full-finger | Material: Leather and synthetic
REASONS TO BUY
Full hand protection
Relatively breathable
REASONS TO AVOID
Poor dexterity
Expensive
With a sturdy design plus well-sewn leather and synthetic construction, the Black Diamond Transition gloves are some of the most comfortable gloves that we tested. They rivaled the Petzl Cordex in both comfort and durability but fell short by just a hair. We liked the stretchy synthetic backing and leather knuckle protection, which was breathable but not flimsy.
The Transition gloves are dexterous for a full-finger model but didn't feel as dextrous or nimble as the Cordex, which are lighter and offer more finger and palm protection. Be aware that the Transition gloves run small, and our lead tester, who typically wears a medium size, found a large one to fit perfectly. If you're after the most comfortable climbing glove on the market, the Transition doesn't disappoint.
We liked the leather knuckle reinforcement and breathable cloth backing of the Black Diamond Transitions.
If you're looking for a leather climbing glove that will stand up to use on dozens of big walls, look no further than the Metolius Climbing Glove. With a thick full-leather construction, these keep your hands safe, whether you're jugging, belaying, or committing to equalized tipped-out micro beaks five hours into a nauseating A5+ lead. While the thick leather construction doesn't breathe as well as others, the three-quarter length design helps to prevent your hands from overheating.
The main disadvantage of the Metolius Climbing Gloves is that they are relatively stiff and can be a bit abrasive during the first few wears. Since the design features thicker seams to increase durability, we recommend fully breaking in the glove before pushing any big walls, as the seams can be a bit irritating until the leather design has some give. We also recommend sizing up if you find yourself between sizes which will also help with any discomfort, especially in hot conditions. After the initial break-in period, the gloves softened and molded to the shape of our tester's hands, allowing for excellent dexterity and protection while pushing routes in Yosemite and Zion National Parks. If you're after a durable climbing glove that is perfect for pushing big walls, the Metolius Climbing Glove is at the top of our list. We also found the Black Diamond Stone to be a great option for big walls, and it has a shorter break in time.
The Metolius Climbing gloves are the most durable half-finger gloves that we tested. We felt pretty good about them while climbing the Shortest Straw on El Capitan.
Length: Full-finger | Material: Leather and synthetic
REASONS TO BUY
Great durability and dexterity
Synthetic backing provides good ventilation
REASONS TO AVOID
Lacks protection for back of hands
Expensive
The Petzl Cordex gloves are our favorite for belaying and rappelling. They feature a reinforced leather palm with a breathable nylon backing, which maximizes protection without compromising comfort. We found the leather reinforcements to be well-placed and helpful, especially on the index finger of each hand, where no other models feature extra protection. This area sees much wear while handling ropes and rappelling, so we appreciated the thoughtful design.
In addition to featuring a durable leather hand, the backs of the Cordex gloves are completely synthetic, making them much lighter and more breathable than leather full-finger models. The breathability is especially nice on hot days when a leather glove would feel stuffy and potentially cause blisters. We liked the balance of durability and breathability offered by the Cordex. They are comparably comfortable to the Black Diamond Transition and far more comfortable than the full-leather Metolius Belay.
Length: Back of hand | Material: Synthetic and rubber
REASONS TO BUY
Durable construction
Slim profile for crack climbing
Excellent sticky rubber
REASONS TO AVOID
Wrist closure can be finicky
The Ocun Crack Gloves were our favorite gloves for climbing coarse splitters. They're thoughtfully constructed, offering the best balance of durability and sensitivity of the crack gloves we tested. After climbing a few thousand feet of both rock and plastic cracks, we struggled to find many flaws in these gloves. They're an excellent alternative to tape gloves and don't add much volume to your hands. The Ocun balance durability and slimness better than any other crack climbing gloves we've tried.
The only finicky attribute of the Ocun was their wrist closure, which could be challenging to close. The velcro straps tuck under the rubber backing and stay out of the way while you climb. For sizing, the Ocun runs relatively small, and we recommend ordering one size larger than you normally wear. Our lead tester typically wears a medium glove but needed a large for the Ocun to fit comfortably. These are some of the most expensive crack climbing gloves, but they deliver unrivaled performance and proved themselves durable for hundreds of pitches.
When it comes to crack climbing, the Ocun is unparalleled in both comfort and hand protection.
Credit: Steven Tata
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Durable and comfortable, the Metolius Belay Glove is among our favorites.
Credit: Trish Matheny
Why You Should Trust Us
To begin our search for the best climbing gloves, we looked at what our testers and their peers used in their personal climbing pursuits. From there, we spent hours online researching which gloves are selling the best and scouting for intriguing new models. We then independently purchased 8 of the best pairs available and went to work extensively field testing them.
Chris McNamara and Steven Tata teamed up for this in-depth review on climbing gloves. Chris has climbed El Capitan over 70 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. He has spent countless days managing ropes and fiddling with gear, all the while wearing every kind of glove that exists. Few people have the breadth of experience with this type of equipment that Chris does. Steven has also put in his fair share of time on big walls with more than 10 ascents of El Capitan. Rounding out our testing team is Trish Matheny who spends the majority of her waking hours climbing in various different locations and disciplines. Trish loves a full day of adventure whether pushing routes on El Cap, the Eastern Sierra, or Zion National Park. Though beat up hands covered in a combination of chalk and dirt from the rope used to provide a sense of satisfaction due to a full day's effort, Trish now understands how important it is to care for your hands, especially on an extended climbing trip. She's happy to share her opinion when it comes to the best climbing glove to suit your specific needs.
The Metolius Belay glove is one of our favorites when it comes to durable performance whether belaying or rappelling.
We especially appreciate the durability of the Metolius Belay glove while climbing at locations where sandstone and volcanic tuft can damage your skin.
The Petzl Cordex is a workhorse, full-finger climbing glove.
Our testing team spent several hours testing each pair of gloves in order to properly identify the best use for each pair as well as highlight those that stood apart from the rest.
Analysis and Test Results
In order to properly assess the protection offered by each pair of climbing gloves, we repeatedly rappelled a fixed line for more than ten hours of total use. Each glove was tested side by side in order to properly compare and observe how each glove performed on the rope, how much friction it provided, as well as overall durability. Next up, we took our gloves to the local climbing gym and belayed for over a month. We noted which gloves offered the most control with the belay device and which gloves offered the best rope handling, especially while lead belaying with a GriGri.
Next up, we moved to a bin of climbing objects: carabiners, pitons, belay devices, and slings. To evaluate dexterity, we tested how well each glove handled each object. We also took each glove out for more real-world applications. Most of this was done at the local crags. But we also used many of the gloves for mountain biking and general chores like setting up pallet racks at OutdoorGearLab Global Shipping Headquarters, West Coast Division. And finally, we chose these gloves for bigger days of aid climbing while pushing El Cap via NIAD and Half Dome in a day where dexterity, durability, and protection are key components of having fun during a big day out.
Value
Most climbing gloves are priced about the same. The exception being the Black Diamond Crag and Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger. These models aren't the most durable of the bunch but shine in other ways like dexterity and rope handling. That said, they will likely wear quicker with time. The Metolius Belay and Metolius Climbing Glove are very durable leather options but are in the higher price range. The initial investment of these might be tougher to swallow, but they will likely last season after season.
Our team of testers went to extreme lengths to make sure they had truly put all these gloves to the test.
Credit: Steven Tata
Rope Handling Protection
Whether it's a day at the crag or a multi-day big wall epic, wearing gloves while you belay, coil rope, or aid climb can save your hands from a serious amount of abuse. Our testers prefer the strength and durability of the Metolius Belay which offered the most protection for long days working with ropes. However, we deemed the Black Diamond Transition to be the most comfortable for all-day use.
While you don't always need a heavy-duty workhorse, gloves like the Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger and the Black Diamond Stone simply don't offer the same full finger protection. Crack climbing gloves are in a class of their own and won't offer any protection for rope handling as they don't have any palm or finger coverage.
Full-finger gloves are great for single-pitch cragging where you're going to be lowering your partner over and over again throughout the day.
Credit: Steven Tata
Dexterity
While it's nice to have protection, a glove that is too stiff makes it hard to load belay devices, zip up jackets, or do anything that takes finger dexterity. Crack climbing gloves like the Ocun will leave you with the most dexterity but offer little in the way of protection while handling rope. Half finger options like the Metolius Climbing Glove, the Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger, and the Black Diamond Stone gloves are a good blend of hand protection and dexterity. The ends of your fingers are exposed, which makes it easier to open snacks or manipulate belay devices. Just be aware that the rope will impact your fingers from the middle knuckle to the tip.
Full-finger gloves like the Metolius Belay and Petzel Cordex offer a good deal of rope protection, but their stiff leather makes precision tasks all the more challenging. That being said, once properly broken in, the Metolius Belay offered enough dexterity for everyday crag use. We just found it challenging to use when attaching small pulley devices to the rope when rigging for rescue.
The Metolius Belay was the perfect choice for rappelling down Cardinal Pinnacle in the Eastern Sierra.
Credit: Menno Sennesael
Durability
The friction from belaying and rappelling can wear gloves out quickly. Leather gloves are typically more durable than synthetic ones. Thick leather gloves like the Metolious Belay gloves should last you pitch after pitch, perhaps even for multiple seasons, depending on the amount of days you spend at the crag. Our tester even wraps tape around the fingertips (often in the pinky and thumb of our right hand) where the gloves tend to fail after significant use. This minor repair will provide tons more use as the rest of the glove remains functional and still provides a ton of protection when handling the rope.
Thin synthetic gloves like the Black Diamond Crag and Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger are more affordable and comfy on warm days due to their breathability, however, they ultimately wear out more quickly.
The index finger is typically one of the first spots to wear through.
Credit: Steven Tata
Aid Climbing
Aid climbing requires a unique blend of durability, dexterity, and rope-handling protection. It's easy to bust your knuckles and pinch your skin in all sorts of aid climbing situations, but it still requires a serious amount of dexterity to place finicky protection, hammer in a beak, or carefully slot a brass nut. Hands down, our favorite glove when it comes to aid climbing was the Metolious Climbing Glove. This glove offers ¾ length protection for your fingers while leaving your fingertips exposed for maximum protection and increased dexterity. Though we tested other half-finger gloves, such as the Black Diamond Stone and Black Diamond Crag Half-finger, they don't quite measure up.
You'll certainly be disappointed if you try to aid climb in any full finger option and will perhaps find yourself cutting the tips off the glove in order to enhance dexterity, as one of our testers did while three pitches up El Capitan. And perhaps needless to say, unless you're pushing the Nose in a day where it's necessary to do roughly 1,000 handjams, crack gloves like the Ocun will do little for you while aid climbing. Designed to help you free climb painful cracks, these simply aren't the right tools for the job.
We prefer half finger options like the Metolius Climbing Glove for aid climbing as they offer both protection and dexterity.
Credit: Vinny Catino
Conclusion
Choosing the right kind of gloves will depend largely on your intended use. Are you looking for crack climbing gloves, single-pitch belay gloves, or a pair built to withstand the rigors of big wall climbing? After purchasing and testing 8 different pairs of gloves, we were able to compare rope handing protection, dexterity, durability, and aid climbing performance. We hope our in-depth review will help you make the right choice for specific climbing needs.
Whether hanging at the crag or hauling up a big wall, gloves can make a huge difference in the day and we hope our perspectives help to inform your next purchase.
